Every page on this site
One list of everything that is public here — the plans, the books, the region and basics pages, and the policies. Nothing is hidden behind a menu.
Plan a trip
A plan is built by a person, for your dates. These pages say what that costs and what you get.
- All plansThe four lengths side by side, with what each one covers.
- City FocusOne week, nothing filler.
- Two CitiesTwo weeks — room to move.
- Deep KoreaThree weeks — room to stay.
- The Full ArcA month — room to change your mind.
- A 1:1 callFifty minutes with someone who lives here, before you book anything.
Books
Finished work, sold as PDF. The Korean edition comes with it so you can point at a page.
- The shopEvery book we sell, with what is inside each one.
- Your First Week in KoreaThe six things that go wrong in week one.
- Korea, The BasicsThe rules that still hold next year.
- Jeju in Three Days, EatingTwo nights, three days, one appetite.
- Gapyeong in Three Days, Namiseom and Water SportsAn hour from Seoul, and a night on the island.
- Gyeongju, a City GuideA capital that never moved for a thousand years.
- Busan, a City GuideThe port city, read from the water out.
- Suwon, a City GuideA walled city a king built on purpose.
- Yeosu, a City GuideFour hundred years of navy, and a night sea.
- Incheon, a City GuideThe gate people tore open.
- Jeonju, a City GuideThe place where Joseon began.
- Yongin, a City GuideKnown for the theme park.
Korea, region by region
Seventeen provinces and cities — what each one is for, and how many days it deserves.
- Korea, region by regionThe map, and which parts of the country are worth your days.
- SeoulAlmost every Korea trip starts here, so the useful question is not whether to include Seoul but how much of your trip it should ta…
- IncheonThis is the region your plane lands in, which is exactly why it gets skipped.
- GyeonggiGyeonggi is the answer to “what do I do on day four in Seoul.
- GangwonIf your mental picture of Korea is all cities, this is the province that fixes it.
- ChungbukChungbuk is the only province in the country with no coastline, and it spends its beauty on rivers and limestone instead.
- ChungnamEveryone who wants old Korea goes to Gyeongju.
- SejongSejong is the newest region in the country, built from scratch to hold most of the government.
- DaejeonDaejeon is the hinge.
- JeonbukPeople drive hours for a meal here and think nothing of it.
- JeonnamThe southwest corner is Korea at its least hurried, and the three things it is known for are close enough together to be one trip…
- GwangjuGwangju carries the weight of the country’s democracy movement in places you can visit and should.
- GyeongbukGyeongju spent a thousand years as the capital of the Silla kingdom and still reads like an open-air museum.
- DaeguDaegu sits on the main high-speed line between Seoul and Busan, which makes it the most natural break on the busiest route in the…
- GyeongnamThis is the coast that does not have a fast train to it, and that fact shapes everything about visiting: the honest answer here is…
- BusanBusan is the second city and the one that feels least like the capital.
- UlsanUlsan sits one stop short of Busan on the same high-speed line, which is the entire argument for including it: it costs a detour o…
- JejuJeju moves a notch slower than the mainland and is planned differently because of it: you fly rather than take the train, and the…
Practical basics
Rules that do not change next year: buses, money, allergies, manners, emergencies.
- Practical basicsThe things that go wrong when nobody tells you the rule.
- The first three hoursThere is nothing to plan for the hours after you land — only things to have ready.
- Airport to SeoulThree ways in, and the right one depends on your luggage, your arrival hour and where you are sleeping — not on which is "best.
- Getting aroundOne card covers the subway, the buses, most taxis and a bottle of water at the convenience store.
- Booking KTXHigh-speed rail is the spine of any trip that leaves the capital, and almost all of the difficulty is in the booking rather than t…
- Reading HangulHangul was designed to be learned quickly, and it delivers on that.
- Signs and menusKnowing the letters and using them are two different hours.
- Greetings and namesOne phrase — annyeonghaseyo — carries almost all of it, and the rest is smaller than you think.
- Eating outThree habits from home stop working the moment you sit down in Korea, and all three are about the same thing: who is supposed to m…
- MannersMost of what visitors worry about does not matter, and a few things they never think about do.
- Food allergiesThis is the one subject where we quote the law and stop.
- Public holidaysWe do not print a table of dates, because a table of dates is wrong by next year.
- Fine dustAir quality is what people here check before deciding whether to spend a day outdoors, and it is reported as a grade rather than a…
- Tax refundThe refund is a three-step errand that people fail at the last step, in the airport, with the goods already checked in.
- Emergency numbersSave these before you need them, because the moment you need them is not the moment to be searching.
- Drinking rulesTwo rules do almost all the work here, and both are commonly reported wrong.
Korean food, dish by dish
Fifty-four dishes, each quoted from the printed book, with the allergens its own sentence names.
- Korean food, dish by dishWhat arrives when you order it, and which of the nineteen legally named allergens the description names.
- 삼겹살 samgyeopsalThick, unseasoned pork belly.
- 목살 moksalPork shoulder.
- 갈비 galbiRibs in a sweet soy marinade, beef or pork.
- 불고기 bulgogiThin beef in the same sweet soy marinade, cooked in a shallow domed pan with onion and mushroom.
- 곱창 gopchangBeef or pork intestine, grilled.
- 상추 · 깻잎 sangchu · kkaennipLettuce and perilla leaf, for wrapping.
- 쌈장 ssamjangThe brown paste in the little dish.
- 된장찌개 doenjangjjigaeSoybean paste stew.
- 볶음밥 bokkeumbapFried rice, made on the same grill after the meat is gone.
- 김치찌개 gimchijjigaeAged kimchi stewed with pork and tofu.
- 순두부찌개 sundubujjigaeUnpressed tofu so soft it has no shape, in red broth, usually with a raw egg cracked in at the table.
- 부대찌개 budaejjigaeHam, sausage, baked beans, tofu and sliced cheese in a wide red pot, boiled at the table.
- 설렁탕 seolleongtangMilky beef-bone broth with brisket and thin noodles.
- 갈비탕 galbitangClear beef-rib soup with glass noodles.
- 감자탕 gamjatangPork spine simmered with potato and greens in a big red pot.
- 해장국 haejanggukLiterally the soup for the morning after.
- 삼계탕 samgyetangA whole young chicken stuffed with rice in clear broth, one bird per person.
- 물냉면 mullaengmyeonBuckwheat noodles in cold beef broth, sometimes with ice in it.
- 비빔냉면 bibimnaengmyeonThe same noodles with no broth, coated in red chili paste instead.
- 콩국수 kongguksuWheat noodles in cold, thick soybean broth.
- 칼국수 kalguksuFlat wheat noodles cut with a knife, in a broth of clam, chicken or anchovy.
- 잔치국수 janchiguksuThin noodles in a light anchovy broth with a few strips of egg and seaweed.
- 수제비 sujebiThe same broth with torn sheets of dough instead of noodles.
- 라면 ramyeonInstant noodles, cooked to order and eaten in restaurants without apology.
- 짜장면 jjajangmyeonWheat noodles under a thick black sauce of fermented bean paste, pork and onion.
- 짬뽕 jjamppongThe other half of the menu: the same noodles in a fiery red seafood broth with squid, mussels and cabbage.
- 탕수육 tangsuyukFried pork with a sweet-sour sauce, ordered alongside the noodles rather than instead of them.
- 군만두 gunmanduFried dumplings.
- 떡볶이 tteokbokkiCylinders of rice cake in sweet red sauce.
- 순대 sundaeA sausage of glass noodles and blood in an intestine casing, steamed and sliced.
- 튀김 twigimBattered and fried: squid, sweet potato, pepper, dumpling.
- 김밥 gimbapRice and fillings rolled in seaweed and cut into rounds.
- 어묵 eomukFish cake on a skewer, standing in hot broth.
- 찐만두 jjinmanduSteamed.
- 김치만두 gimchimanduKimchi in the filling.
- 만둣국 mandutgukDumplings in clear beef broth, a full meal rather than a snack.
- 해물파전 haemulpajeonSpring onion and seafood in a thin batter, fried the size of a plate.
- 김치전 gimchijeonChopped kimchi in the batter, so the whole pancake is pink and sour.
- 감자전 gamjajeonGrated potato and nothing much else, fried until the edges are lace.
- 빈대떡 bindaetteokThick, heavy, made from ground mung bean instead of flour.
- 후라이드 huraideuPlain fried, no sauce.
- 양념치킨 yangnyeomchikinThe same chicken coated in a sticky red sauce that is sweet before it is hot.
- 반반 banbanHalf plain and half sauced in one box.
- 족발 jokbalPig trotter braised in soy and spices, sliced off the bone and served cold or warm with lettuce and salted shrimp sauce.
- 보쌈 bossamBoiled pork belly, sliced, eaten wrapped in cabbage leaves with a pile of seasoned radish.
- 배추김치 baechugimchiThe default kimchi: whole cabbage leaves in chili and salted seafood, cut into lengths.
- 깍두기 kkakdugiRadish cut into cubes and kimchied.
- 콩나물무침 kongnamulmuchimSoybean sprouts, blanched and dressed with sesame oil.
- 계란말이 gyeranmariRolled omelette sliced into rounds, often with vegetables through it.
- 멸치볶음 myeolchibokkeumTiny whole dried anchovies, stir-fried sweet.
- 호떡 hotteokA yeasted pancake pressed flat on a griddle with brown sugar and nuts inside, which come out molten.
- 붕어빵 bungeoppangFish-shaped cakes with sweet red bean inside, sold hot from a cart in winter.
- 팥빙수 patbingsuShaved ice heaped over sweet red bean, with condensed milk and rice cake.
- 약과 yakgwaA fried honey cookie, dense and very sweet, sold in packets.
Korean phrases
Seventy-six numbered cards from the book, each with the romanisation the standard actually gives.
- Korean phrases, checked against the standardThe hangul, the romanisation built from the official standard, and when each one is used.
- 카드 찍는 곳이 어디예요? kadeu jjingneun gosi eodiyeyo?Where do I tap my card?
- 이 주소로 가 주세요. i jusoro ga juseyo.Please take me to this address.
- 이거 어떻게 읽어요? igeo eotteoke ilgeoyo?How do you read this?
- 여기 뭐라고 써 있어요? yeogi mworago sseo isseoyo?What does this say?
- 안녕하세요 annyeonghaseyoHello.
- 성이 어떻게 되세요? seongi eotteoke doeseyo?What is your family name?
- 한국어를 조금밖에 못 해요. hangugeoreul jogeumbakke mot haeyo.I only speak a little Korean.
- 안녕히 계세요 annyeonghi gyeseyoGoodbye.
- 감사합니다 gamsahamnidaThank you.
- 저는 술을 못 해요. jeoneun sureul mot haeyo.I don’t drink.
- 사진 찍어도 될까요? sajin jjigeodo doelkkayo?May I take a photo?
- 이거 두 개 주세요. igeo du gae juseyo.Two of these, please.
- 이 인분 주세요. i inbun juseyo.Two portions, please.
- 하나 더 주세요. hana deo juseyo.One more, please.
- 몇 시예요? myeot siyeyo?What time is it?
- 얼마예요? eolmayeyo?How much is it?
- 잘 먹었습니다. jal meogeotseumnida.That was a good meal.
- 계산할게요. gyesanhalgeyo.I’d like to pay.
- 몇 번 출구예요? myeot beon chulguyeyo?Which exit number is it?
- 내릴게요! naerilgeyo!I’m getting off!
- 여기로 가 주세요. yeogiro ga juseyo.Please go here.
- 흡연 구역이 어디예요? heubyeon guyeogi eodiyeyo?Where is the smoking area?
- 저기요 jeogiyoExcuse me.
- 이거 주세요. igeo juseyo.This one, please.
- 이거 더 주세요. igeo deo juseyo.More of this, please.
- 두 명이요. du myeongiyo.Two people.
- 저는 음식 알레르기가 있어요. 확인해 주세요. jeoneun eumsik allereugiga isseoyo. hwaginhae juseyo.I have a food allergy.
- 이 음식에 땅콩이 들어 있어요? i eumsige ttangkongi deureo isseoyo?Does this contain peanuts?
- 이 음식에 조개나 새우가 들어 있어요? i eumsige jogaena saeuga deureo isseoyo?Does this contain shellfish or shrimp?
- 고기 없이 만들 수 있어요? gogi eopsi mandeul su isseoyo?Can this be made without meat?
- 볶음밥 주세요. bokkeumbap juseyo.Fried rice, please.
- 이거 언제 먹으면 돼요? igeo eonje meogeumyeon dwaeyo?When can I start eating this?
- 가위 좀 주세요. gawi jom juseyo.Scissors, please.
- 반반 주세요. banban juseyo.Half and half, please.
- 포장해 주세요. pojanghae juseyo.To go, please.
- 이 국물에 멸치나 조개가 들어 있어요? i gungmure myeolchina jogaega deureo isseoyo?Is there anchovy or shellfish in this broth?
- 참기름이나 참깨가 들어 있어요? chamgireumina chamkkaega deureo isseoyo?Does this have sesame oil or sesame seeds in it?
- 원재료 표시 좀 볼 수 있을까요? wonjaeryo pyosi jom bol su isseulkkayo?Could I see the ingredient list?
- 알레르기가 심해요. 조금만 들어가도 안 돼요. allereugiga simhaeyo. jogeumman deureogado an dwaeyo.My allergy is severe.
- 잘 모르시면 안 먹을게요. 괜찮습니다. jal moreusimyeon an meogeulgeyo. gwaenchansseumnida.If you’re not sure, I won’t have it.
- 젓갈이나 액젓이 들어 있어요? jeotgarina aekjeosi deureo isseoyo?Does this have fermented seafood or fish sauce in it?
- 돼지고기가 들어 있어요? 육수도요. dwaejigogiga deureo isseoyo? yuksudoyo.Does this contain pork?
- 소주 한 병 주세요. soju han byeong juseyo.One bottle of soju, please.
- 안주는 뭐가 있어요? anjuneun mwoga isseoyo?What do you have to eat?
- 먼저 일어나겠습니다. meonjeo ireonagetseumnida.I’ll head off first.
- 카드 되나요? kadeu doenayo?Do you take cards?
- 입어 봐도 돼요? ibeo bwado dwaeyo?Can I try this on?
- 도와주세요! dowajuseyo!Please help me!
- 119 불러 주세요. irilgu bulleo juseyo.Please call 119.
- 여기가 아파요. yeogiga apayo.It hurts here.
- 약국이 어디예요? yakgugi eodiyeyo?Where is a pharmacy?
- 가방을 잃어버렸어요. gabangeul ireobeoryeosseoyo.I lost my bag.
- 찜질방까지 할게요. jjimjilbangkkaji halgeyo.The jjimjilbang floor too, please.
- 문신이 있는데 괜찮아요? munsini inneunde gwaenchanayo?I have a tattoo.
- 수건 하나 더 주세요. sugeon hana deo juseyo.One more towel, please.
- 여기 앉아도 돼요? yeogi anjado dwaeyo?May I sit here?
- 세신 받을게요. sesin badeulgeyo.I’d like the scrub.
- 괜찮아요. 안 할게요. gwaenchanayo. an halgeyo.I’m fine, thanks.
- 에어컨 좀 줄여 주세요. eeokeon jom juryeo juseyo.Could you turn the air conditioning down?
- 우산 있어요? usan isseoyo?Do you have umbrellas?
- 난방 좀 올려 주세요. nanbang jom ollyeo juseyo.Could you turn the heating up?
- 오늘 미세먼지 어때요? oneul misemeonji eottaeyo?How’s the air today?
- 오늘 문 열어요? oneul mun yeoreoyo?Are you open today?
- 표 남아 있어요? pyo nama isseoyo?Are there any tickets left?
- 다음 거 언제예요? daeum geo eonjeyeyo?When’s the next one?
- 언제 다시 열어요? eonje dasi yeoreoyo?When do you open again?
- 숙박이요. sukbagiyo.Overnight, please.
- 온돌방이에요, 침대방이에요? ondolbangieyo, chimdaebangieyo?Is it an ondol room or a room with a bed?
- 바닥이 너무 뜨거워요. badagi neomu tteugeowoyo.The floor is too hot.
- 뜨거운 물이 안 나와요. tteugeoun muri an nawayo.There’s no hot water.
- 체크인 할게요. chekeuin halgeyo.I’d like to check in.
- 짐 좀 맡길 수 있어요? jim jom matgil su isseoyo?Could I leave my bags here?
- 유심 있어요? yusim isseoyo?Do you have SIM cards?
- 한국 번호가 없어요. hanguk beonhoga eopseoyo.I don’t have a Korean phone number.
- 와이파이 비밀번호 뭐예요? waipai bimilbeonho mwoyeyo?What’s the wifi password?
- 제 번호는 이거예요. je beonhoneun igeoyeyo.This is my number.
The people and the journal
The MDs who write the itineraries, and what we notice while living here.
Rules and sources
Where the photographs came from, and the terms you are agreeing to.